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WORLD ECO-FIBER AND TEXTILE
(WEFT) FORUM 2008
FROM 12th
(FRIDAY) TO 14TH (SUNDAY) SEPTEMBER, 2008 |
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PATRON |
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- Y.A.Bhg Datuk Amar Puan Sri Laila Taib (
wife of the Chief Minister of Sarawak)
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ORGANIZERS/SPONSORS |
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- Sarawak State Government
- Malaysian Handicraft Development Corporation
(Kraftangan Malaysia)
- Society Atelier Sarawak
- Galeri Petronas
- Sarawak Museum
- Sarawak Crafts Council
- Sarawak Convention Bureau
- Sarawak Tourism Board
- Balai Seni Lukis Malaysia
- Crafts Council of Malaysia
- Sarawak State Library
- UNIMAS
- UNESCO
- AHPADA (ASEAN Handicraft Promotion and
Development Association)
- LCIT
- Sarawak Dayak Cultural Foundation
- Tun Jugah Foundation
- Sarawak
Tourism Federation
- Sarakraf
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FASHION DESIGNERS INFORMATION |
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- ALFONSO GUINO-O (PHILIPPINES)
After more than four decades of a remarkable
career as a couturier, Alfonso or “Boy” as he is
affectionately known to his clients has earned
himself as the Czar of Mindanao Fashion!
Alfonso’s trademark interpretation of the
traditional Spanish-inspired Filipino ‘barot
saya’ dress is distinctive in his ability to
interpolate the designs and fabrics of
Mindanao’s diverse cultural heritage.
The ‘tinalak’ or banana fibre ikat textiles of
Mindanao, are showcased here in a haute-couture
collection for women. His menswear are the
‘barong tagalog’ – formal Filipino men’s
fashion.
- ACHMAD SOPANDI ( INDONESIA)
Pa” Achmad Sopandi has done extensive research
on prehistoric cave paintings and the use of
hematite or rock and soil pigments as colourants
throughout the Nusantara or Malay Archipelago.
In applying such dyestuff onto batik fabric,
Sopandi is able to create a profoundly natural
look. Drawing inspiration of motifs from nature
and from traditional motifs, his collection is
called ETHNO BATIK.
- GALEN HOGAN (SINGAPORE)
A renowned jewellery designer in Singapore,
Galen has participated in numerous international
shows and exhibitions. His sculptural and
artistic pieces are much in demand by customers
who are always looking for the unique and
unusual ‘one-of-a-kind’ signature jewellery.
The pieces he is showing here are ‘mock-ups’
which he will then transform into the actual
pieces in gold, silver or other precious metals.
- PENPORN JUNCHAYA (THAILAND)
Penporn comes from a family that has been
involved in traditional Thai hand-woven textiles
such as the Tai Lue and other brocades.
Some of the unique pieces take more than a year
to weave, and are much sought after in Thailand
by fashionable society women. Following in the
footsteps of her mother, Penporn now injects new
contemporary colours and vibrancy to the ancient
weaves of her people.
- CREATIVE
BEE (India)
Creative Bee is the Design Studio of a
professional designer couple, Bina and Kesava
Rao, in the city of Hyderabad, Andhra Pradesh,
India. The combined artistry of Keshav and Bina
has made Creative Bee a hub of Design & Fashion
activity. The fusion of contemporary fashion and
design trends with traditional weaving and
printing techniques; merging the traditional and
modern has garnered them a clientele that reads
like a who's who of India's fashionable elite.
- Olivia
Batchelder (USA)
Olivia Batchelder is from the arts community of
Laguna Beach, California, USA. She paints
vibrant abstract compositions on luminous silk
canvas. Her collection is inspired by the many
emotions of nature. She has taught in
California, as well as at the Tuscany Institute
for Advanced Studies in Italy. She has exhibited
in galleries in Los Angeles, San Francisco, New
York, Kansas City, Tokyo, and Kuala Lumpur.
- EDRIC ONG (MALAYSIA)
Known as the Malaysian designer who symbolizes
true Sarawak style, Edric Ong consistently
creates unique and original thematic fashion
collections. He draws his inspiration from the
cultural heritage of Malaysia’s indigenous
people.
Today the EO label centers on ‘eco-textiles’
crafted from silk, cotton and other natural
fibers using natural dyes. These are fashioned
into a collection of hand-printed and painted
batik scarves, stoles and clothes for men and
women. Even the colors of his fabrics come from
the earth: natural tones derived from the
rainforest. The chic, contemporary garments are
comfortable yet stylish to wear.
- FABRIKO
(MALAYSIA)
This Textile house is renowned for its Sarawak
motif printed polyesters ,silks and sarongs.
Venturing further into innovative ethno-style,
the use of the 'pua kumbu' motif on the
embroidered 'nyonya kebayas' as well as the
Orang Ulu motif on printed textile yardage
continue to give new verve to traditional
fashion.
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SPEAKERS |
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Asmoro Damais- Pekalongan Batiks of Java,
Indonesia
Biodata
Asmora Damais has been collecting Batik, mostly
from the North Coast of Java since 1970s and has
also developing Batik for modern garments and
interior items like bedcovers, table cloths,
pillows etc. Under her mentor Ibu Judi Achjadi,
she has documented Batik and other Indonesian
Textiles and Costumes. She curated the Batik
Museum in Pekalongan in 2006.
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Edric Ong -
"THE SUN AND THE MOON"- Mystic Indo- Iban
Textiles
Biodata
President of Society Atelier Sarawak, Malaysia.
Committee Member, Crafts Council of Malaysia.
Immediate Past President, ASEAN Handicraft
Promotion and Development Association (AHPADA).
Member World Crafts Council; Consultant to
UNESCO; Jury member of UNESCO-AHPADA Seal of
Excellence for Crafts.
Architect; Curator; Author and International
speaker on Architectural Conservation, Crafts
and Textiles.
Convener of World Eco-Fiber and Textile (WEFT)
Forum.
Recipient of numerous awards for his designs.
Paper
The Iban people of Sarawak, Malaysian Borneo
weave the ‘Pua Kumbu’ warp ikat textiles known
as 'Woven Dreams' as indeed the symbols and
patterns of tradition were given by the weaving
goddess Kumang to master-weavers through
dreams.The ancient cloth was specially woven for
rituals and festivals. The Iban woman's status
in her community was traditionally dictated by
her ability (or otherwise) to weave!
The ‘Sun’ (Buah Matahari) and ‘Moon’ (Buah Bulan)
cloth were specially woven for use in
traditional rituals associated with the eclipse
of the sun and the moon! It is said that when
such an eclipse occurs, the shaman of the
longhouse will bring out such ‘Pua Kumbu’ with
the sun or moon motif. She will wave the cloth
along the ‘tanju’ or longhouse deck so that the
power of the wind from the cloth will sweep away
the evil forces that are ‘swallowing up’ the sun
or moon!
This paper will examine the cross cultural
influences and comparison of these Iban textiles
with the Indian silk ikat patola textiles with
the ‘vohra gajji bhat’ motif as well as
highlight design similarities with patterns in
Indonesian batiks.It also highlights the rituals
associated with the mordanting ceremonies held
by weavers to ensure good natural dyes from the
roots of morinder citrifolia (Engkudu).
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Dr. Padma S. Vankar- Natural Dyes of India
Biodata
Ph. D in Oct’ 1986 from
Chemistry Department, IIT Kanpur, engaged in the
characterization of newer natural dyes and
designing synthetic strategies for Ecofriendly
dyes using microwave heating system. Working in
the area of natural dyeing for the past 12
years, written 3 books on natural dyeing, and
one book on Textile effluents, handled 11 major
research projects on Natural dyes, published 85
research publications and two documentary films
on Process development in vegetable dyeing as
well as Chromium menace by Tanneries. Presently
engaged in the utilization of bio-treatments,
enzymes and biomordants in natural dyeing.
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Bina Rao, India- the Bastaar textiles of
Orissa
Biodata
Mrs Bina Kesav Rao has done her MA Fine Arts
(Graphics) from MS University, Baroda, Gujarat
in the year 1981 and attended AEP Textile Design
from 1981 to 1983 at the National Institute of
Design, Ahmedabad, Gujarat, India.
In 1998, Bina and her husband Kesava Rao set up
Creative Bee, a Design Studio having diversified
activities in the field of textile & fashion
design, production and promotion of handloom and
handicrafts. It is based in the city of
Hyderabad, Andhra Pradesh, India.
Professionally working as consultants for a
number of Govt & Private Export Clients, they
have been working towards design development,
training, production & marketing of handloom &
handicraft at Creative Bee. Consistent R & D and
designing unique handloom products for fashion
and home textiles, has made Creative Bee a hub
of Design & Fashion activity having a high
profile local & international clientele.
Advisor on a number of state & central projects
& committees of Govt of India, Ministry of
Textiles and member of World Crafts Council,
Bina Rao is working extensively towards healthy
growth of Handloom & Handicraft Sectors of her
country & South East Asia. She has been invited
several times to conduct Work Shops, Teaching
Assignments, Lecture & Design Development
Projects in Australia, USA, Thailand, Malaysia &
Bangladesh
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Susan Fell-McLean(Australia)- Ernabella-
Aboriginal women’s Batik
Biodata
Susan Fell Mclean is an Australian textile
artist, researcher and educator. She is the
Australian representative on the World Batik
Council, and has attended international
conferences as a speaker and exhibitor. She has
presented solo exhibitions of her work which
include ‘Palimpsests in Translation’ at Yarra
Sculpture Gallery – Abbotsford Melbourne 2007,
and ‘Nature’s Memory’ - Benalla at Art Gallery
Australia in 2003. Susan has participated in
group exhibitions locally and nationally, as
well as in Canada, Italy, Malaysia and Belgium.
In 2005 she was invited as a researcher at
Ernabella Arts Centre, a remote community of
Indigenous people, in Pitjatjanjara Lands in the
far north west of South Australia. After
stringent editing, she was granted approval to
speak about the practice of batik by the women
of Ernabella, which spans more than 30 years.
Susan’s own studio practice is based on notions
of landscape, with direct reference to specific
locations and stories, although the expression
is essentially abstract. Susan uses batik,
rozome, shibori, felt making and stitch to make
works which are at times two dimensional and at
others, sculptural. Her aim is to employ
textiles as sculptures and installations, to
articulate a sense of place and history,
connecting threads of different places and
different times. Susan has a Master of Visual
Arts from Monash University, and was awarded a
studio position in Tuscany Italy, for September
–October 2006.
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